Carlton Hill Wine Company

David Polite came out of a law background on the East Coast and studied at Reed College before taking coursework at Chemeketa. He bought this hilltop property outside Carlton in 1991 — a turn-of-the-century house that he describes with references to The Money Pit. His first impression was less than romantic. The house looked weathered, the fog wouldn’t lift, and he says it felt like the setting for a scene in a scary movie. He bought it anyway. His line about the decision is simply that he knew it was right.

He planted six acres in 1999 to Dijon 115 and 777, later adding Pommard and Wädenswil across eleven acres total. The site faces east, which is unusual here and closer to what the great Burgundy sites do — full morning sun, shade in the early evening, and the cooling that comes with nightfall. The soil is WillaKenzie marine sediment, denser than volcanic ground and slower to release heat. All of it produces gently ripened fruit with lower sugar and higher acid.

The first vintage in 2002 made eighty cases. The largest to date was 670. As Polite puts it, they’re such a boutique producer they aren’t even on most maps of the region.

Three principles guide the winemaking: grow the best fruit possible, avoid manipulating the wine, and make something with depth and structure that will age. No enzymes, no concentration techniques, indigenous fermentations as the rule. Estate Pinots age eleven months in French oak, twenty percent new. The only variable year to year is whole cluster percentage. Bottled at higher acidity and lower alcohol than most, deliberately built for the cellar. He acknowledges freely that his wines may not be ready to drink in year one, calls it probably a bad business decision, and does it anyway. The upside is that he can pour older vintages most wineries no longer have.

LIVE certified and sustainably farmed since 2004. Fruit also goes to Abbey Road Farm and other producers.

Tastings happen by appointment in the historic barn at the top of the hill, hosted by Polite himself. Walker, the resident dog, is generally considered the co-host. There’s a croquet lawn with valley views, an annual croquet tournament for club members, and guests are welcome to bring lunch. The facilities are, in the winery’s own words, rustic and limited. Between October and June, dress warmly and wear shoes made for mud.